LED light therapy, a favorite among beauty experts and celebrities, has been used for years to combat signs of aging. Today, it is widely accessible through at-home devices like red masks and facial wands.
These devices, priced from around $100 to several thousand dollars, promise various benefits. They claim to reduce fine lines, diminish redness and inflammation, clear acne, improve skin elasticity, enhance glow, and even out skin tone.
However, recent scrutiny has questioned these claims. A report by The Times UK challenged the effectiveness of these products. Lyma, a company promoting its light therapy as “100 times more effective than LED masks,” had researchers from Imperial College London review competing products. The researchers found that these devices only affect the outer layer of the skin and are not as effective as claimed.
In response, UK advertising officials have criticized Lyma’s claims about its advanced cold “laser,” stating they are misleading and unsupported. On the other hand, studies published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology and the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology have shown measurable benefits of traditional LED therapy.
LED masks, along with similar devices, have been FDA-approved and on the market for decades.
Dr. Henry Legere, Chief Medical Officer at Restore Hyper Wellness, a US-based med spa, commented that LED masks mainly benefit the skin’s surface. For deeper, more significant skin changes, he notes that these devices generally do not penetrate beyond the outer layer.
Dr. Legere affirmed that “at-home devices can be effective” for maintaining skin health and addressing mild to moderate concerns. They may help reduce fine lines, improve skin texture, and alleviate inflammation.
Dr. Michele Green, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist in New York City, explained that the effectiveness of LED therapy depends on the light’s color and wavelength. Red light is believed to stimulate collagen production, while blue light targets acne-causing bacteria. Red light penetrates deeper into the skin than blue light.
Dr. Green advises understanding the type of light and wavelengths used in LED masks to gauge their potential benefits.
The risks associated with LED masks are generally minimal, including temporary redness or dryness, especially for those with sensitive skin.
Clinical Aesthetician Pam Marshall of Mortar & Milk shared her observations with The Standard. She noted that while at-home LED masks may not penetrate deeply, they are still beneficial. She likened their effect to “micro-dosing,” suggesting that improving the skin’s surface health positively influences deeper layers.
